It was the late 70's early 80's that I experienced hiking in the White Mountains, hiking up Old Bridle Path on Mt Lafayette with my Dad, Uncle, brother and cousin was when I first had the pleasure of magnificent views above tree line in New England. I'm sure I complained a bit, as most kids do, but it was an experience that made me realize the importance of the outdoors and the human soul.
I learned the amazing story of "Aunt" Jess Guernsey, who in 1808 at 93 years young, in a wild untamed wilderness, stumbled upon the Flume Gorge in Franconia Notch, NH as she was searching for a fishing spot! Those of you that have had the pleasure experiencing this area, now with boardwalks and all but paved roads weaving through the gorges and forest, can only imagine the struggle it must have been in 1808, before it was "developed" into what it is today. My young mind couldn't comprehend a 50 year old, of the current day, able to accomplish something of that magnitude, never mind a 93 year old!
This thought remained buried in my fragile young mind for a few years as I wandered around the White and Green Mountains of New England while hiking other four thousand foot mountains with my Dad and Uncle.
A few years later I learned of the challenging Pemi Loop, while hiking part of it, as a young teenager, marveled at it's beauty and the grueling ability of those who hike it in two or three days, I was amazed when told of fit enough hikers completing it in a day, back then I'm sure there weren't many! I automatically couldn't help imagining Aunt Jess Guernsey being one of those that would've been able to in her youth.
Looking back I am extremely happy my young mind was so influenced by this, because it helped develop the lifestyle that I chose for myself. I made a personal commitment all those years ago to live a healthy lifestyle, so at the age of 50 I could be fit enough to complete the loop in a day. At that young age 50 seemed like an eternity, but I just so happen to have turned the magical age last year and this was the summer for the enjoyable Pemi Loop challenge!
 |
| Here is the link to my trek: Pemi Loop |
The Pemi Loop is located in the Pemigewasset Wilderness Area in the heart of the White Mountains, NH. It's a combination of trails linked together for 30+ miles connecting ten summits, eight of which are considered 4k'ers and with short side trips to a few more. I've seen reports of at least 9k' of elevation, as my GPS statistics showed over 10k'.
The journey started with my kids dropping me off at Lincoln Woods trailhead at 3:30am. It was a clear early morning with an almost full moon which lit the sky and ground almost enough to see without a headlamp.
Leaving the parking lot I crossed the East Branch Pemigewasset River on a suspension bridge that I've crossed an uncountable amount of times throughout the years, but this time was different, it was THE hike that has been lurking in the back of my mind for almost 40 years, this time it meant so much more knowing the reasons behind this hike was why I physically felt of a 20 year old who has been around for 50 years.
Of course like rain on a wedding day is told as a good omen, this hike started with me dropping a canister of bear spray after crossing the suspension bridge. I quickly turned to reach down to pick up canister and caught a cloud of Capsaicin floating in the air after it was unleashed when the canister hit the ground, quickly bringing discomfort and irritation to my eyes and nose. Luckily, due to training within my profession, I knew the effects would not be long lasting as I returned the canister to it's pouch, chuckled and coughed thinking it should be like rain on the big day.
Lincoln Woods Trail is an old logging railroad bed that's long been abandoned and is left as a flat dirt trail with old wooden rail ties half buried in scattered groups. It's a slight grade, as it follows the East Branch Pemigewasset River for just under 5 miles where it turns into Bondcliff Trail and steadily climbs upwards along the banks of Black Brook, traversing the river bed four or five times as the grade gets more steep.
Lincoln Woods Trail is an old logging railroad bed that's long been abandoned and is left as a flat dirt trail with old wooden rail ties half buried in scattered groups. It's a slight grade, as it follows the East Branch Pemigewasset River for just under 5 miles where it turns into Bondcliff Trail and steadily climbs upwards along the banks of Black Brook, traversing the river bed four or five times as the grade gets more steep.
 |
| Some old rail ties on Lincoln Woods Trail at 3:30am |
As Bondcliff Trail nears the headwaters of Black Brook there's a few switchbacks, due to the steep grade of the terrain, until breaching the wood line where you do some rock scrambling up a small rock outcropping into the open alpine zone of Bondcliff mountain at 4200+'.
 |
| Bondcliff Trail |
The views on this perfect day were spectacular! The weather was calm with a slight breeze from the northwest and a near cloudless sky. I could see the ridgeline of the entire Pemi Loop with Owls Head mountain dwarfed within the mountainous loop.
 |
| The ridge in the background is Franconia Ridge, where I'll be in a few hours. Owls head is in the foreground. |
 |
| The first views as I enter the alpine zone. |
The famous photogenic Bondcliff was picturesque as usual, with Bondcliff Trail meandering northeast across the ridge and open alpine zone to Mt Bond, which rises another 600+' in elevation.
 |
| If you look close you can see me on Bondcliff |
Hiking above tree line on such a calm day has always been such a revitalizing experience in itself, but on this day it was something special for me. Some people train a few months for a special event or race, this event is one that I was consciously training for every time I step foot in a gym, went mountain biking, running, cycling, hiking or any other workout type activity. Every meal I ate has been of health conscious for longevity for this very moment and beyond. This revitalizing alpine zone experience was different and more special.
The hike between Bondcliff and Mt Bond was spectacular. I slowed my pace from 15-20 min/mile to 20/30 min/ mile enjoying the views and the weather, gliding across the alpine zone, feeling like a kid again, both physically and mentally, expecting to see my Dad and Uncle ahead.
 |
| Looking back to Bondcliff from Mt Bond summit. |
Working in Corrections for the last 30 years made me appreciate the solitude and peacefulness of the mountains. I've been through some challenging times early in my career and no matter how threatening the situation was in a maximum security prison, I couldn't wait to hit the trails and escape. Although the trails aren't as quiet as they once were, on this hike I had the entire Bond ridge to myself. I didn't encounter another hiker until South Twin, it was like the good old days of peaceful solitude in the mountains escaping reality for a time.
The entire Bond ridge never drops below four thousand feet in elevation with open views 360 degrees most of the way. I was amazed at how far Franconia Ridge appeared to be and how I would be traversing it soon.
 |
| Part of the trail traversing the Bonds |
 |
| The view from South Twin looking towards Franconia Ridge, where I'm heading. |
Once I arrived on South Twin summit I knew the panoramic views were about to end for a while, from here the Twinway trail dips below four thousand feet and does it quickly with lots of rock boulders to maneuver across below tree line. Descending over 1400' in just a bit over a mile.
After the quick descent I arrived at Galehead Hut, where I topped off my water supply for the second half of my trek. I had traveled 14 miles in almost exactly 5 hours, which was a bit under the halfway mark. I was hoping to complete this loop between 10- 12 hrs and it seems I was on pace to do so.
 |
| Galehead Hut |
 |
| The beautiful view from Galehead Hut |
The three miles in between Galehead Hut and Mt Garfield were pleasant, as it meandered through the trees with not much elevation change, at least not strenuous compared to the climb up Lafayette via Garfield Ridge, which I was heading for.
As I was ascending the northeast side of Mt Lafayette the trail climbs 1300' in approximately a mile and a half, utilizing upper and lower body strength bouldering my way up the most fun trail of the entire loop! I love a good challenge and looked forward to this part of the loop knowing the steepness and what was ahead, Franconia Ridge!
 |
| Reminiscing of the many years spent in these mountains across NE. |
I knew once I arrived on the summit of Lafayette it would be bittersweet hiking along Franconia Ridge combining beautiful scenery and heavy traffic along the ridge, due to it's popularity and ease of access from Franconia Notch, so I took a long break on a rock outcropping just below the North Lafayette summit.
I used this time to reminisce on the countless hikes throughout the years, which started in the White's on this very mountain, chasing four thousand foot summits all over New England in my younger years and leading into hikes in parts of Nova Scotia, Adirondacks, Patagonia and many areas in between. Starting with the company of my Dad and many years later introducing my son, who also became an avid hiker as we caught sunrises from peaks all over the Northeast in a year long challenge we set for ourselves last year leading into my 50th birthday (Here is a link to his entries of our hikes: Sunrise hike challenge). It was an incredible journey and this was the perfect spot to reminisce.
 |
| Looking back at the Bonds, where I was just a few hours before. |
"Sometimes you never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory", Dr. Seuss.
After a half hour or so on this rock looking out to the Bonds, although I didn't want to, I knew it was time to move. I will always treasure the moments spent on that rock, as well as the moments throughout these mountains.
Trekking across Mt Lafayette I remembered those days long ago as a child admiring, from this very summit, the beauty and, what appeared to be, endless mountains all around. The only thing that changed over the course of time, from this vantage point, was the amount of people standing admiring the same views. The line of people working their way across Franconia Ridge was like the crowds at Disney... Well maybe not that bad, but close.
 |
| Greenleaf Hut with Cannon mountain across the Notch |
 |
| I quickly took this photo looking across Franconia Ridge while there weren't many hikers visible. |
 |
| The two pointed peeks in the foreground are my last two summits on the loop, Mt Liberty and Mt Flume. |
I slowly walked my way across Franconia Ridge, amazed at the beauty and calming feeling of the extensive natural landscape, like the countless times I've been here before. I don't think anyone could get bored with these views!
I crossed Mt Lafayette, Lincoln, Liberty and Flume before entering back below treeline where the effects of this hike started wearing on me. With the last of the views behind me and the last five miles under tree cover, the rejuvenating feeling above tree line was fading fast. That's when I realized the lack of hiking I've done in 2020, due to the restrictions of this crazy year. Other than one hike over the winter, this was the only hike in the mountains for me! This realization made me even more proud of what I accomplished and how the healthy lifestyle I chose was right for what I wanted to achieve, which is good health and longevity. If I have good health and financial stability deep into my golden years, it will be more great of an achievement than any degree, title or promotion I could have obtained and I proved to myself today that I was on track, whether or not the "Aunt" Jess Guernsey character was real or fictional, it was the story a fragile young mind needed and used for motivation for 40 years! I'm glad the story was told to me so many years ago.
